Grats man! Get out there and take some pics. The weather is going to be getting nicer and nicer now. 
Official BeyondUnreal Photography Thread
- Thread starter BillyBadAss
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Thanks BBA.
Took some more pics today in downtown Vegas. I shot about 200 images today, so there is much to sift through. Here's one that caught my eye, so I spruced it up a bit in Lightroom. Yes, it's Brando as the Godfather, taken at Madame Tussauds.
Took some more pics today in downtown Vegas. I shot about 200 images today, so there is much to sift through. Here's one that caught my eye, so I spruced it up a bit in Lightroom. Yes, it's Brando as the Godfather, taken at Madame Tussauds.
I have a new lens! A 10-20mm Sigma. This babe rocks; I felt light-headed after seeing the whole room through the viewfinder, and not just a portion of the bookshelves like with the 28-200. One problem feature of this huge FOV is that your legs always seem to be getting in the way if you're aiming even slightly downwards, making you take up all sorts of weird/wonderful positions to move them (and other parts of the body even) out of the frame. Another is that objects through the viewfinder seem to be miles away, when they're actually just a few inches away from the tip of the lens. I pray I don't accidentally move in too close as to smash it against something.
Next week there's an exchange student staying with me, and I imagine we'll be visiting a lot of places in short spaces of time with the rest of the uh, exchangees. This gives me an opportunity to shoot the Awesome Wide Angle Group Shots, which, if the guys are drunk enough, should turn out a relatively easy task.
But for now, I walked around the streets for a bit and took some (test?) shots. Giggity.
And less processed shots:
(^ When having such a wide FOV I found there's no excuse for not including the whole building in the frame, like here.)
Crotale: I like the subject matter, but I think because of it being centre-aligned the space to the left and right looks unnecessary. The guy's stare leads us further right and makes us completely ignore the one to the left - how about moving the whole figure to the leftmost edge so that there's enough 'thinking space' to the right?
Next week there's an exchange student staying with me, and I imagine we'll be visiting a lot of places in short spaces of time with the rest of the uh, exchangees. This gives me an opportunity to shoot the Awesome Wide Angle Group Shots, which, if the guys are drunk enough, should turn out a relatively easy task.
But for now, I walked around the streets for a bit and took some (test?) shots. Giggity.
And less processed shots:
(^ When having such a wide FOV I found there's no excuse for not including the whole building in the frame, like here.)
Crotale: I like the subject matter, but I think because of it being centre-aligned the space to the left and right looks unnecessary. The guy's stare leads us further right and makes us completely ignore the one to the left - how about moving the whole figure to the leftmost edge so that there's enough 'thinking space' to the right?
Nice shots, looks wider than it does on my camera - are you on full frame or is it my eyes playing tricks with me?
I got my new lens + a flash yesterday
Sigma 70-200 f/2.8 ---> It's huge and awesome!Ah, we have the same lens? Stupid question but, are you taking your photos at 10 focal length or are you zooming in to >20? Otherwise, no idea, sorry.
Yeh I've got a 10-20 - perspetive looks different, although ould be down to the style of the shots or the camera.
What camera are you using?
What camera are you using?
These shots were taken with a Konica Minolta 5D. I tried the lens on our new a700 and the 'perspective' seems to be the same. Maybe Mike can explain why you might be getting a different look?
Can you maybe post some pictures up so that we can see what you're talking about?
My guess that it's to do with the subject matter, yes.
The sensor size is slightly bigger on your camera but not enough to make a difference, must come down to the type of imagines I have taken not showing the same perspective.
You've got lots of buildings with straight edges so you can really easily pick up on the perspective. All I've shot so far is some random point and click images around the house, and some shots of my mates motorbike. Will go around town with mine at some point
You've got lots of buildings with straight edges so you can really easily pick up on the perspective. All I've shot so far is some random point and click images around the house, and some shots of my mates motorbike. Will go around town with mine at some point
Plasmadaemon really took advantage of his super wide angle by getting really close to his subjects. The closer you are the more distorted a subject looks. He also either tilted up or down to enhance the distortions and perspective. Its quite dramatic and it looks great!
2.0 crop - Olympus, General Imaging
1.6 crop - Canon Rebel,10-50d
1.5 crop - Nikon (most), Minolta, Sony, Fuji
1.3 crop - Canon 1dmk 1-3
1.0 Full Frame - Canon 1ds 1-3, 5d, Nikon D3, D3x, D700, Sony Alpha A900
The crop factor will mess with your perceptions on how effective a 10-20mm really is.
2.0 crop - 20-40mm
1.6 crop - 16-32mm
1.5 crop - 15-30mm
1.3 crop - 13-26mm*
1.0 crop - 10-20mm*
* Note that you cant actually use this lens on many of these cameras because it will damage your mirror and lens at 10-13mm. )Mirror meets extruding lens, lens gets scratched, mirror will sometimes break.) Because of the smaller lens elements for these reduced circle lenses you will not be able to fill the frame. Nikon D3, D3x, D700, Sony Alpha A900 on the other hand will let you use reduced circle lenses at the expense of mega pixels. It will usually cut your mega pixel count in half.
Another less talked about factor is your cameras view finder. Some cameras like the 40d, D300 have a very nice view finder for a crop camera. Others like the Rebel or D70 have a very small view finder which makes it difficult to judge exactly how the image will look in post. Distortion isn't as dramatic or as noticeable.
2.0 crop - Olympus, General Imaging
1.6 crop - Canon Rebel,10-50d
1.5 crop - Nikon (most), Minolta, Sony, Fuji
1.3 crop - Canon 1dmk 1-3
1.0 Full Frame - Canon 1ds 1-3, 5d, Nikon D3, D3x, D700, Sony Alpha A900
The crop factor will mess with your perceptions on how effective a 10-20mm really is.
2.0 crop - 20-40mm
1.6 crop - 16-32mm
1.5 crop - 15-30mm
1.3 crop - 13-26mm*
1.0 crop - 10-20mm*
* Note that you cant actually use this lens on many of these cameras because it will damage your mirror and lens at 10-13mm. )Mirror meets extruding lens, lens gets scratched, mirror will sometimes break.) Because of the smaller lens elements for these reduced circle lenses you will not be able to fill the frame. Nikon D3, D3x, D700, Sony Alpha A900 on the other hand will let you use reduced circle lenses at the expense of mega pixels. It will usually cut your mega pixel count in half.
Another less talked about factor is your cameras view finder. Some cameras like the 40d, D300 have a very nice view finder for a crop camera. Others like the Rebel or D70 have a very small view finder which makes it difficult to judge exactly how the image will look in post. Distortion isn't as dramatic or as noticeable.
BTW:
http://www.dpreview.com/news/0903/09030602preteccfcard666x.asp
666x CF Card. Very exciting.
I just picked up a few 4gig and 8gig Sandisk Extreme III CF cards. Some are 30mb/s others are not. These new cards will go 100mb/s. I welcome the speed and the price drop is creates for all other CF models.
http://www.dpreview.com/news/0903/09030602preteccfcard666x.asp
666x CF Card. Very exciting.
I just picked up a few 4gig and 8gig Sandisk Extreme III CF cards. Some are 30mb/s others are not. These new cards will go 100mb/s. I welcome the speed and the price drop is creates for all other CF models.
One of my issues, other than being a total photography noob, is that I cannot hold still to get a good shot of anything. Time to seriously research a tripod.
After taking over 350 shots with my camera, I have only a few that aren't too horrible to show to the public. Here's one I took last weekend. I made a few Lightroom tweaks.
[screenshot]http://fc85.deviantart.com/fs43/f/2009/067/4/1/Stratospheric_by_Crotale.jpg[/screenshot]
After taking over 350 shots with my camera, I have only a few that aren't too horrible to show to the public. Here's one I took last weekend. I made a few Lightroom tweaks.
[screenshot]http://fc85.deviantart.com/fs43/f/2009/067/4/1/Stratospheric_by_Crotale.jpg[/screenshot]
Good shot
Unless you have a serious medical disorder.. or its dark.. you don't need a tripod to shoot objects that do not move. A shutter speed of 1/200 is enough to capture any still life even if your the one shaking the camera. Even if you have Parkinson or Huntingtons 1/500 will get the job done. Increase that ISO until you can utilize those shutter speeds.
Use your arm or knee to stabilize your camera. objects that surround you can help lock your camera into place and serve as a sudo tripod.
If you feel you really need a tripod.. get one with a quick release L bracket. You should also get a remote release so you never have to touch the camera while you shoot. N shake.. no vibration.. no blur..
Personally I don't use my tripod unless I want the absolute highest quality image under controlled conditions. Product photography, lens testing, or extremely low light conditions where 1/60 just doesn't cut it.
Another excellent method is to machine gun it. If you have to shoot at 1/60 and you know your a little shaky.. take advantage of your 3fps 5fps 11fps.. what ever your camera can do. Chances are one of those shots will be sharper than the others.
As a rule with any lens.. You do not want to use a shutter speed lower than the lens millimeter you are at. I have found that this rule works all the way from 50mm - 500mm. Any lower and you risk motion blur brought on by the shake of your hands. VR or IS helps with this. If you have the shake.. you may wish to invest in some Image stabilizing lenses.
Thanks for the tips Mike. I have been generally setting the camera to auto for most shots, but have played around with a few different settings. I'll mess around with the shutter and iso settings to get a better feel. I think what I truly need is to set aside a solid weekend to devote to shooting.
Go for it!
It took me a year before I nearly dedicated myself to manual mode. I still use Aperture Priority and Program mode during weddings when the action is too fast to think about what my settings should be.
Something else you should think about. Commonly most cameras Automatic mode is very limited. High ISO may not be utilized at all. Program mode solves this by letting you set your ISO, use RAW, while still letting the camera make all the other decisions. Check your manual.. you may be limited to ISO 200-400 in automatic when you could be using 1600 to get those much needed shot.