Bonecrusher
Make choices, don't look back...
They didn't stay with 1366 for very long. They moved to 1156, and then there was some confusion about compatibility or something. Anyway, Sandy Bridge is the shiny new stuff. And even though the one I picked out is an i5, I'm pretty sure it would lay the smackdown on my i7 at this point. I was never a fan of the triple channel memory for some reason... just me, afraid of change 
If you want a SOLID rig, I would definitely recommend waiting a month or two to get your monitor. Save up some more green, and keep an eye on those websites I mentioned (or I will, I check them at work almost every day). A serious deal is bound to pop up at some point.
You have to watch where you order the monitor from tho. If I remember right Jason ordered his from somewhere else because newegg's return policy sucks balls as far as dead pixels goes.
If you feel the need to cut a corner, based off of what I mapped out you can downgrade the graphics card a little. With the 5 series being out, 4 series is pretty affordable. If that downgrade gives you enough breathing room, I'd look at a different mobo too, either Asus or EVGA. I just picked that one because it had the features (USB 3.0, Sata 6Gb/s etc.)
I know that isn't EXACTLY what I shopped out at work, but that was as close as I could remember in the 5 minutes I was able to spend this morning. The total was slightly less at work...
And after re-reading your last post there Ice, I must say... don't buy with the intention of overclocking. You buy a tank of a gaming rig, it'll be fine just the way it is. Play nice with it. Who cares if you can hit 4.8GHz on stock air cooling, the benefit isn't worth the shortened life span. If you get an EVGA card and want to tinker with their precision software, go ahead. I use it to map out a temperature to Fan RPM graph so the bastard doesn't overheat playing Crysis.
Other than that I'm running bone stock, no overclocking whatsoever, and it still chews up anything I throw at it.
EDIT: I found where the difference was. I chose the i5 2400 at work. You can see the comparison between the 2400, 2500, and 2500K Here. You can save some money there because the differences are minimal. The clock speed jumps 200 MHz from 2400 to 2500, and the only difference between 2500 and 2500K is the integrated graphics, which you most likely won't be using anyway.
If you want a SOLID rig, I would definitely recommend waiting a month or two to get your monitor. Save up some more green, and keep an eye on those websites I mentioned (or I will, I check them at work almost every day). A serious deal is bound to pop up at some point.You have to watch where you order the monitor from tho. If I remember right Jason ordered his from somewhere else because newegg's return policy sucks balls as far as dead pixels goes.
If you feel the need to cut a corner, based off of what I mapped out you can downgrade the graphics card a little. With the 5 series being out, 4 series is pretty affordable. If that downgrade gives you enough breathing room, I'd look at a different mobo too, either Asus or EVGA. I just picked that one because it had the features (USB 3.0, Sata 6Gb/s etc.)
I know that isn't EXACTLY what I shopped out at work, but that was as close as I could remember in the 5 minutes I was able to spend this morning. The total was slightly less at work...
And after re-reading your last post there Ice, I must say... don't buy with the intention of overclocking. You buy a tank of a gaming rig, it'll be fine just the way it is. Play nice with it. Who cares if you can hit 4.8GHz on stock air cooling, the benefit isn't worth the shortened life span. If you get an EVGA card and want to tinker with their precision software, go ahead. I use it to map out a temperature to Fan RPM graph so the bastard doesn't overheat playing Crysis.
Other than that I'm running bone stock, no overclocking whatsoever, and it still chews up anything I throw at it.EDIT: I found where the difference was. I chose the i5 2400 at work. You can see the comparison between the 2400, 2500, and 2500K Here. You can save some money there because the differences are minimal. The clock speed jumps 200 MHz from 2400 to 2500, and the only difference between 2500 and 2500K is the integrated graphics, which you most likely won't be using anyway.
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