D3D9Drv.dll
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Alas, after playing thru 2 onlsaught matches and 2 CTF matches without incident, I had high hopes that switching the voltage settings on the AGP in BIOS as you suggested might have actually fixed the problem.
But in an empty deathmatch map where I turned off the bots and was just inspecting the model in game and testing the taunts, it happened again.
Not a spontaneous reboot at least, but a total system lockup - where the game freezes with the screen showing whatever was happening at the time, and the speakers emitting a high pitched whining shriek sounding like a cross between the emergency broadcast system buzzer and a loop of whatever sound was playing when the system froze up.
Even control+alt+delete can't pull you out of the lock up, and you have to shut down the power and restart. So it may as well be a spontaneous reboot, since it ends in rebooting anyway.
Back to the drawing board.
Any other suggestions....?
Slyrr
But in an empty deathmatch map where I turned off the bots and was just inspecting the model in game and testing the taunts, it happened again.
Not a spontaneous reboot at least, but a total system lockup - where the game freezes with the screen showing whatever was happening at the time, and the speakers emitting a high pitched whining shriek sounding like a cross between the emergency broadcast system buzzer and a loop of whatever sound was playing when the system froze up.
Even control+alt+delete can't pull you out of the lock up, and you have to shut down the power and restart. So it may as well be a spontaneous reboot, since it ends in rebooting anyway.
Back to the drawing board.
Any other suggestions....?Slyrr
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Dark Pulse
Dolla, Dolla. Holla, Holla.
I'm suspecting your PSU. 350 is pretty low nowadays for a gamer - you need like 400-450 to be pretty clear.
TomWithTheWeather said:
I remember them saying that too. Yet it does work better. It doesnt look better, in fact i has some issues. But performance is what I care about so it works better than D3D.dll and the opengl api. Honestly I'm happy with this buggy .dll
I'm suspecting your PSU. 350 is pretty low nowadays for a gamer - you need like 400-450 to be pretty clear.
If that is indeed the case, what are my options short of buying a whole new system? Because you can't replace the power supply unless you replace the tower. And you usually can't replace the tower without replacing the motherboard. And once you have to replace the motherboard, you may as well just get a new system and be done with it....
On a similar note, is it possible the OUTLETS into which the power strip and so forth are plugged may not have enough juice flowing thru them? Is there any way to verify that? Maybe the apartment itself just isn't getting enough power. Can you recommend a voltage meter or something that techies may use to measure how much power an outlet SHOULD have vrs. how much it's acutally getting?
Another thing that might be useful is some way to measure how much power computer is getting vrs. how much it should be getting. Is there any way to measure that? The CPU adn motherboard I got from ASUS came with voltage measureing software. It's the same thing that measures the temperature of the CPU and other components while running. Sensors in the motherboard keep track of where the voltage and temperature is at.
In every case, when playing a 3D game, the temperature is always in the green. During 3D game sessions it sometimes gets into the yellow, but only in the borderline between green and yellow - never anywhere near the red.
By the same token, the voltage and power readings for the major components is always in the green, and has never so much as gotten near yellow.
Problem is, when the computer freezes or crashes as a result of UT2004 game playing, you can't measure any spikes or glitches with this software. Because of course, the computer has crashed and you can't go out to the software to see if there were any spikes anywhere.
Any thoughts on these subjects? If the computer isnt' getting enough power, I'd like to fix that. I've never had problems like that before and I'd like to confirm it one way or the other. How much power is your average outlet supposed to put out, and is there a way to measure how much it's actually getting?
Slyrr
If that is indeed the case, what are my options short of buying a whole new system? Because you can't replace the power supply unless you replace the tower. And you usually can't replace the tower without replacing the motherboard. And once you have to replace the motherboard, you may as well just get a new system and be done with it....
On a similar note, is it possible the OUTLETS into which the power strip and so forth are plugged may not have enough juice flowing thru them? Is there any way to verify that? Maybe the apartment itself just isn't getting enough power. Can you recommend a voltage meter or something that techies may use to measure how much power an outlet SHOULD have vrs. how much it's acutally getting?
Another thing that might be useful is some way to measure how much power computer is getting vrs. how much it should be getting. Is there any way to measure that? The CPU adn motherboard I got from ASUS came with voltage measureing software. It's the same thing that measures the temperature of the CPU and other components while running. Sensors in the motherboard keep track of where the voltage and temperature is at.
In every case, when playing a 3D game, the temperature is always in the green. During 3D game sessions it sometimes gets into the yellow, but only in the borderline between green and yellow - never anywhere near the red.
By the same token, the voltage and power readings for the major components is always in the green, and has never so much as gotten near yellow.
Problem is, when the computer freezes or crashes as a result of UT2004 game playing, you can't measure any spikes or glitches with this software. Because of course, the computer has crashed and you can't go out to the software to see if there were any spikes anywhere.
Any thoughts on these subjects? If the computer isnt' getting enough power, I'd like to fix that. I've never had problems like that before and I'd like to confirm it one way or the other. How much power is your average outlet supposed to put out, and is there a way to measure how much it's actually getting?
Slyrr
I don't know where your arrived at that conclusion but that's certainly not the case (no pun intended
), especially with a branded case such as Antec. I wish all my clients thought along those lines. That's all relative; what Asus consider borderline green/yellow, I might consider as yellow/red, you need to give us actual figures.
Mother Board Minitor 5 and SpeedFan will both log temps & voltages for you, which you can go through after a lockup/crash. MBM5 is my personal fave but SpeedFan is easier to set up.
Going off your previous posts, you/we have ruled out most things except the PSU (I highly doubt it's your home ring that's at fault). You can either disconnect any fans, lights, drives, 2nd stick of ram, etc for testing purposes so as to reduce the load on the PSU, or borrow a higher rated PSU and swap that out. It might sound a bit of a pain but at least you'll know one way or the other if it is indeed the PSU at fault.
I ask about measuring the voltage in the outlets at the apartment only because I see occasional flickering with the lamps. It's not severe and only happens every so often, but that could probably be said of any house or apartment.
If we're narrowing down on the source of the issue, that would be great. I'll try to post my actual voltage figures when I get home from work
I'll also ask my friends, who have similar vidcards what THEIR PSU is....
Slyrr
If we're narrowing down on the source of the issue, that would be great. I'll try to post my actual voltage figures when I get home from work
I'll also ask my friends, who have similar vidcards what THEIR PSU is....
Slyrr
Dark Pulse said:
I dunno, I have a lot of crap running on mine (Including an extra black light and some Blue LED displays) and Im cruising with 350w.
I'm inclined to try it at least - as I have tried everything else.
According to the ASUS probe software, which monitors the voltage used in various parts of the computer, there are 4 sections:
Vcore: which always seems to remain at 1.518
+3.3V: whihc always seems to remain at 3.312
+5: which is always at 5.026
+12: which is highest on the graph, and fluctuates between 12.03X and 11.95X
(where X is a variable)
The temperature monitor has 2 windows:
CPU: which remains at a constant 35 celcius / 95 farenheit
Motherboard: which also remains at 35/95
That is during normal computer use. During 3D games.... (HL2)
CPU: 45 c / 110 f
MB: 36 c / 97 f
Voltage readings reamined virtually the same
Donno if that will help, but there it is - most other 3d games cause identical changes, whether they are complicated games like HL2 or UT2004, or simple ones like HL1 and Jdoom.
The demands on my comp. aren't too stiff - I have the computer itself, and the only components are: the vidcard, soundcard, 2 HDs, an A drive, CD rom and a network card. That's pretty much it....
According to the ASUS probe software, which monitors the voltage used in various parts of the computer, there are 4 sections:
Vcore: which always seems to remain at 1.518
+3.3V: whihc always seems to remain at 3.312
+5: which is always at 5.026
+12: which is highest on the graph, and fluctuates between 12.03X and 11.95X
(where X is a variable)
The temperature monitor has 2 windows:
CPU: which remains at a constant 35 celcius / 95 farenheit
Motherboard: which also remains at 35/95
That is during normal computer use. During 3D games.... (HL2)
CPU: 45 c / 110 f
MB: 36 c / 97 f
Voltage readings reamined virtually the same
Donno if that will help, but there it is - most other 3d games cause identical changes, whether they are complicated games like HL2 or UT2004, or simple ones like HL1 and Jdoom.
The demands on my comp. aren't too stiff - I have the computer itself, and the only components are: the vidcard, soundcard, 2 HDs, an A drive, CD rom and a network card. That's pretty much it....
My ASUS motherboard came with software called "PC Probe". I mentioned it before, but never noted until now that it has a summary tab that has a 'record' option in it, so you can record temperature/voltate/fan speed at any given time.
I used it to record these things while playing several UT2004 games. And sure enough, on the fourth one, I had the system lockup with the buzzing speakers.
I had to reboot, as I always do when that happens, and quickly ran PC probe and went to the summary panel, examining the recording it had made, all the way up to the instant of the crash.
Alas, there is nothing unusual on any of the graphs. The voltage remained at a steady 12.0XX (see above), the temperature showed the usual 10 degree increase from 35f to 45f when the game is running. But no severe spikes in any of them. Everything was perfectly normal up the the instant the system froze.
Anything that sounds weird or wrong, feel free to point it out....
Slyrr
I used it to record these things while playing several UT2004 games. And sure enough, on the fourth one, I had the system lockup with the buzzing speakers.
I had to reboot, as I always do when that happens, and quickly ran PC probe and went to the summary panel, examining the recording it had made, all the way up to the instant of the crash.
Alas, there is nothing unusual on any of the graphs. The voltage remained at a steady 12.0XX (see above), the temperature showed the usual 10 degree increase from 35f to 45f when the game is running. But no severe spikes in any of them. Everything was perfectly normal up the the instant the system froze.
Anything that sounds weird or wrong, feel free to point it out....
Slyrr
Dark Pulse
Dolla, Dolla. Holla, Holla.
Strongly betting on PSU now. You seem to forget, if the power even drops or fails for .02 seconds, your system will reset.
Dark Pulse
Dolla, Dolla. Holla, Holla.
Well, I remember a long time ago my comp would reset or freeze at odd times, and getting a new PSU fixed it.
The only other thing I can think of is you're using a 8x, .8v AGP card in a mobo that is expecting a 8x, 1.5v AGP card - in which case downclocking that card to 4x will work.
The only other thing I can think of is you're using a 8x, .8v AGP card in a mobo that is expecting a 8x, 1.5v AGP card - in which case downclocking that card to 4x will work.
Dark Pulse said:
Don't think that's it, but I'll allow anything's possible. One of the first things I did when getting my computer home after building it was to make sure in BIOS that the AGP was set to 8x speed so there wouldn't be any smartgart conflicts....
Slyrr
Dangit guys! We need this file so that we can use Game Capture in OBS. Requires DirectX 9 or above. Now there's nowhere to find it. Way to go
Just play the 3369 64-bit build if you 'need' d3d9 so badly.
Another alternative is to use one of those fishy 'd3d8-d3d9 convertor from mother russia' dlls, - but they require cubemaps to be disabled first. There's also this,but that's untested.
Another alternative is to use one of those fishy 'd3d8-d3d9 convertor from mother russia' dlls, - but they require cubemaps to be disabled first. There's also this,but that's untested.
This. Or you can extract the patch (its an archive) and grad the .dll from the extracted folder.
I've been using the 64-bit executable for a long time without issue, in DX9. FWIW, I tried the SweetFX for UT2K4 - which needs DX9 - and with some tweaking, it looks pretty....well, sweet.
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I was able to get the dll from the older patch. Didn't work on my system though Epic just needs to give someone the code so we can convert it like they did with UT99.
Epic just needs to give someone the code so we can convert it like they did with UT99.