Establishing Bots

Freddie · Jan 11, 2010

Hello,

I completed building a new Windows 7 system, and also I reinstalled Unreal, along with 227f, all the available hi-level textures, and all the other games I've downloaded for Unreal.

Unreal is working correctly, but I've forgotten how to establish bots in botmatches. I'm very lonely while playing those matches. Can someone enlighten me on how to make some bots appear so that I can engage in some combat?

freddie

GreatEmerald · Jan 11, 2010

Not sure about the old console, but if you're using the UnrealGold console, you have a tab "bots" in the botmatch menu, where you can change "Bot number" to what you want.

Another way to add bots is to open the console (~ key) and enter addbots n where n is their number.

Freddie · Jan 11, 2010

GreatEmerald,

Thanks for the reply. I'm using the original Unreal (old console). I can find no option for enabling bots in any of the menus. I've looked at all of them, but I could miss it, I suppose.

I tried using the console and entering the command "addbots n" (I used an actual number) but that produced no bots. I'm still very lonely.

Any other ideas"

Freddie

GreatEmerald · Jan 11, 2010

The command can't fail if a) you are currently in a local game, b) it has at least one PlayerStart and c) you pressed Enter after entering the command.

Either way, if it still doesn't work, see what the console outputs. If it's "Unrecognised Command", then there is something wrong with the spelling.

And finally, you can always change your console:
http://www.oldunreal.com/wiki/index...ent_menu_interface_instead_of_this_old_one.21

Freddie · Jan 11, 2010

GreatEmerald,

OK, my bad! When I selected Game > Botmatch, I left one of the options set on coop, rather than selecting one of the other options, like Death Match. Coop doesn't provide Bots in single player mode. I knew that, but apparently I can't remember anything much beyond about five minutes. It works now.

Thanks,

Freddie

GreatEmerald · Jan 11, 2010

Ah, so that means that condition A wasn't fulfilled, since coop is not local, but network game

Freddie · Jan 12, 2010

GreatE,

Correct! After I selected a Botmatch option other than coop (like Death Match), an option screen became available for configuring Bots, including the number involved in the game.

I've been setting up and configuring my new Windows 7 system. That takes a lot of time and effort. I have about 50-55 Unreal type games to reinstall and configure, along with everything else. I'm getting there.

freddie

NeoNite · Jan 12, 2010

That many? I'm not sure how many I've bought (or tried - demo) in the last ten years.
Let's see..unreal, ut, ut2003, unreal anthology, ut3, deus ex. Demos: klingon honor guard, nerf arena blast, adventure pinball, wheel of time, rune, undying, XIII,pariah...that's about it I think.

GreatEmerald · Jan 12, 2010

Freddie said:
I've been setting up and configuring my new Windows 7 system. That takes a lot of time and effort. I have about 50-55 Unreal type games to reinstall and configure, along with everything else. I'm getting there.

Oh hey, I'm doing exactly the same here! Though I don't have as many games (Anthology and Steamed UT3). But luckily most of Unreal Engine games don't need to be installed, only folders copy pasted (UT2004 needs a RegFix applied after that, though). Though I can't find a working RegFix for UT2003

Freddie · Jan 12, 2010

All,

In addition to the commercial versions on Unreal, I'm also classifying as "Unreal games" all the custom map packs that I've downloaded (like Attacked, illhaven, 7-Bullets, etc.).

I've saved them all on CDs, but it's still time consuming to unpack, copy and paste. Then there's the S3TC hi-end textures, set-up configurations, etc.

Now I'm seeing my new computer overheating while playing those games. I've got more
work to do. I hate it when that happens.

Freddie

GreatEmerald · Jan 12, 2010

If your system isn't brand new, you should consider cleaning the dust. It does wonders.
If it is, see which part is overheating, and then check their heatsinks, as well as the general airflow.
What's the temperature there, anyway?

Freddie · Jan 12, 2010

GreatE,

I think the box doesn't have sufficient airflow. I just finished putting together a mini-ITX system, which means it's a very small box. I'm running an Intel i7-860 (95 watt) using the heatsink and fan that came with the processor.

Since I have a very small box, there isn't room for a bigger heatsink. The OEM fan/heatsink just fits with no room to spare.

It blue screens when the temp hits somewhere around 80 Celsius. I'm running Speed Fan so that I can watch the temps. There is no problem with temp apart from running games. During normal operation, it runs in the mid 50s (Celsius).

I'm thinking about cutting a vent into the top of the case. I'm working on coming up with some idea for doing this. Bummer.

Freddie

GreatEmerald · Jan 12, 2010

Do you mean mini-ATX? I have a normal ATX, and my system right now runs at 42 degrees, with CPU and HDD being at 33 degrees. That system has 2 working fans right now, and one is disconnected because it's noisy for some reason. When playing Unreal II, case temperature gets up to 55 and CPU goes up to around 45. I hope that's low enough and I won't have to plug the extra fan in too often

Freddie · Jan 12, 2010

GreatE,

Yup, for sure it's a mini-ITX (6.7" x 6.7" square) motherboard. Here is the one I have:

http://lp.lanparty.com.tw/portal/CM...sWindow?action=e&windowstate=normal&mode=view

I notice that the above link doesn't connect directly with the motherboard I'm using. For those interested the mini-ITX, I'm using the DFI P55-T36 socket LGA-1156 board.

I like small form-factor. Here is the case I'm using:

http://www.e-itx.com/g-alantic-ga610.html

As you can see, it has poor ventilation. You'll notice that the case comes with a 150 watt power supply. I upgraded that to a 300 watt supply. One of those 80+ rated ones.

My former system, a micro-ATX based one, ran cool while gaming. The case had plenty of ventilation and a large heatsink/fan.

I'll come up with some solution. I'm just not sure what it will be at this time.

Freddie

GreatEmerald · Jan 13, 2010

Oh, so Mini-ITX is even smaller than Micro-ATX. It figures :\

Yea, generally PSUs that come bundles with cases are terrible and not worth getting in the first place. 300W PSU is still kinda low, I have 520W Corsair modular and people say that even that may not supply enough power for my Radeon HD 4890...

Freddie · Jan 13, 2010

GreatE,

My 300 watt power supply should be fine. My graphics card is a Radeon (by Asus) HD 4650 with 1 GB RAM. It's powerful, for a low profile card, with an 800 MHz core. It draws only 30 watts (max) under full load. It's a version made for those using small form factor home theater type boxes.

My small system doesn't draw much power. The processor draws 95 watts (max), the graphics 30 watts (max), the SSD drive almost nothing, the rest is the motherboard and what is installed on the motherboard, apart from a case fan.

Small form factor is nice, but it has its limitations.

Freddie

GreatEmerald · Jan 13, 2010

The certified PSU list shows 430W Seasonic as the lowest wattage PSU. Though wattage doesn't really matter that much, amperage is more important. This is its specs:
http://www.overclock3d.net/gfx/articles/2007/11/24201456724l.jpg
Then again, the list isn't overly correct, but it's a good guideline for "minimum requirements".

What's your PSU?

NeoNite · Jan 13, 2010

Freddie said:
All,

In addition to the commercial versions on Unreal, I'm also classifying as "Unreal games" all the custom map packs that I've downloaded (like Attacked, illhaven, 7-Bullets, etc.).

Freddie

Ah ok

Freddie · Jan 13, 2010

GreatE,

Do you mean what's the wattage of my PSU? It's a 300W unit with efficiency rating of 80+. Are you saying that I should have a minimum PSU of 430W?

I suspect I'd need that much only if I had more hardware than I have. With my hardware (see my prior post) a 300W PSU is sufficient.

Freddie

GreatEmerald · Jan 13, 2010

No no, I'm asking for the amperage. Like I've said, wattage doesn't really mean much, because it's the +12V rails that are most important for the system, and some manufacturers like to cheat and add a lot of amperes on other rails just to boost their wattage totals.

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